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| Backtracking in Parque Tayrona |
This isn't a complete turnaround or a full retraction, but Parque Tayrona and our return trip to Bogota deserve at least a footnote to the bite-fueled vitriol of my last post on Colombia.
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| Parque Tayrona: first stop en route to El Cabo |
A few days before we left - the rainclouds having parted for the first time in weeks - we took a boat to Parque Tayrona, a national park near Santa Marta on the edge of the Caribbean.
Lush tangles of jungle cloak the steep ranges flanking sheltered stretches of golden sand - as we motored deeper into the park, I heard the rustle of petals unfurling.
Without the rain, without the air steeped in humidity, without every inch of my body being racked by incessant itches... in a different time, in the same place, I think I would have fallen head over heals in love with Colombia. Swimming in the cool currents, looking in towards the empty beach and the jungle behind it humming with life, I think Colombia may have been whispering in my ear, "it's not me, it's you".
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| Cabo camping: backpacks optional |
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| Just one blot on the serenity |
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| Coconut crabs: they're everywhere |
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| Work horses bring in supplies |
Even our return trip to Bogota was a happy reunion. Danyel and Massimo welcomed us back like old friends. After a day of roaming the familiar streets, we took the cable car up to Monserrate, a mountain in the centre of Bogota with views right across the city and to the left, to Guadalupe Hill, where a statue of the saint stands vigil.
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| Monserrate & the city |
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| Guadalupe: keeping watch over Bogota |
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| Cracking a smile in Boggie |
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| Birdseye view of La Candelaria |
Before our midnight flight, we ate pizza and drank beer with Massimo and Danyel, Massimo regaling us with stories about his attempts to reach his "objective" of attaining 1,000 notches on his bedpost, plans to open a swingers club in Bogota, adventures in a Czech nightclub and dealings with a one-eyed Sicilian on a quest for a Colombian bride.
And so we left for Brazil, not altogether hating Colombia. In fact, maybe even loving it, just a little.
Glad it turned around for you in Colombia. I just discovered your blog and am very jealous of your epic adventure!
ReplyDeleteYep - came across your blog while searching for info on Boipeba. Don't think we'll head down that way (rainy season) but will be checking out your recommendations in Rio next week. Wish I'd known about your blog when I was in London - will be passing it on to my friends.
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